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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) R65 Resurrection (Read 896 times)
Mrclubike
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #15 - 09/26/18 at 20:24:45
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Hopefully it will measure 38mm and you can get the very inexpensive Brembo 38mm kit

here is the link to the complete caliper if yours are to far gone
They are standard Moto Guzzi parts
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_115&products_i...

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_115&products_i...
  

Brembo_seal_kit.PNG ( 97 KB | 4 Downloads )
Brembo_seal_kit.PNG

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Mrclubike
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #16 - 09/26/18 at 20:27:42
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The ATE is  what you  had originally
Like yours I have installed a standard 38mm Brembo F08 in its place
  

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Barry
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #17 - 09/27/18 at 03:40:18
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Matt Chapter wrote on 09/26/18 at 09:37:47:
TomHoldom wrote on 09/24/18 at 11:39:06:
b.t.w I had ear-marked the Power King PK-12180 12V 18Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery (€46 in France) which fits in my enclosure - sound alright?


I'd find an AGM battery instead, they last longer and require zero maintenance for about the same price.


Looks to me like the Power King PK-12180 replacement batteries are AGM's.

  

Barry Cheshire, England 79 R45
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TomHoldom
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #18 - 09/27/18 at 13:12:29
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Thanks all again,

OIL
stripped drive shaft fill - obviously needs a repair in the long term.....presumably that means taking apart to get access to drill out etc?
Having finally managed to remove the plug from this location (previously it was just turning), is there a temp / bodge fix I could get away with in the  short term...?

the oil filter I have taken out is the 'bendy' 2 part type, but I am ordering the 'straight' type to replace - is this ok?

Oil that came out of the engine was 'clean' looking, so I don't think I'll remove

FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS
got the calipers apart; condition doesn't look too bad? (see photos), the pistons aren't jammed, I can compress both sides and a bit of residual fluid gurgles - should I be able to remove them?
They appear to measure 36mm diameter - is this bad news? I think someone mentioned the 38 was more commen and cheaper for parts?
That said the condition doesn look bad, but as you know I'm no expert; could you have a quick look at the photos and tell me what you think - pads have still got plently on them......

MASTER CYLINDER
Got this apart, but things here look less good - see photos...salvagable?
Its maybe looking like I'll have to 'upgrade' to a square. Motobins tell me that part 61126 THROTTLE ASSEMBY WITH MASTER CYLINDER is compatible with my twin disk brembos - at cost of £258,60....! May be the way to go?
  

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TomHoldom
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #19 - 09/27/18 at 13:34:12
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and a couple of master cylinder photos
  

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Aethelric
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #20 - 09/27/18 at 14:50:11
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Quote:
OK here goes; I'm pretty much a novice so please excuse my ignorance.
I have a 1978 R65 which I bought around 20 years ago, used on and off for 10 years, then left for 10 years (undercover) and now am getting going again.
Battery obviously dead, but a friend hooked it up to their car and managed to get the engine to splutter back to life.


In parallel:-
Mine is a 1985 R65LS bought 25 years ago, used on an off for 10 years then left 15 years (undercover) and now am getting going again.
Battery was dead but hooking up to a leisure battery it sputtered into life.

Mine is now in bits, Engine out, barrels and heads off being aqua blasted, frame awaiting powder coating.  Bottom end looks in good shape.
  
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Mrclubike
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #21 - 09/27/18 at 21:40:16
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take the pistons completely out to measure
Maybe the outer  rim is smaller than the piston itself
That fluid looks really bad
Looks like water contamination 
I suspect the MC bore is bad
I suspect the caliper bores are pitted also
  

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TomHoldom
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #22 - 09/28/18 at 03:46:18
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Hello Mrclubike,
any tips on how to get caliper pistons out - as I say, they move in and out, but I'm not familiar with these bits, so I'm nervous about damaging something.

Attached is a photo of the MC bore and piston after a soak in some slightly less old fluid - Look slightly less awful, but I'm thinking with the amount other dodgy bits with this MC; reservoir cap screws had to be drilled out as 2 out of 3 were spinning without coming out, diaphragm knackered, fluid leak even before I stopped using the bike 12 years ago, etc.... that it might be sensible to renew for the square reservoir?
  

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Barry
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #23 - 09/28/18 at 03:55:47
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A bit late now but I would have pumped them out before draining the fluid.  I've refilled the system before now to get a stubborn one out.  Other methods include using compressed air taking care the piston doesn't become a missile.
  

Barry Cheshire, England 79 R45
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Justin B.
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #24 - 09/28/18 at 16:21:52
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Put a piece of wood in place of the "rotor" and put some compressed air to the inlet.  Make sure your fingers are clear when doing this...
  

Justin B.

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1981 R100RT - Summer bike, NEKKID!!!
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Tony Smith
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #25 - 09/28/18 at 19:05:59
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If the caliper pistons are really stuck (and being Brembos I'd be surprise if they were) You can run a tap into the gallery that connects the two halves of the caliper and fit a grease nipple.

Using a grease-gun to pump out stuck caliper pistons is something I have done many times, mostly to car brakes, but also to ATE and Tockico calipers (manufacturers who share the unspeakable crime of using chrome plated bright mild steel for pistons).

Messy, but never yet met a piston that successfully resisted.


However, to turn to your immediate problem, I would simply fit an O-ring and put your calipers back together and give them a good flush once you have a working master cylinder. A motorcycle wrecker of my acquaintance tells me that he has seen Brembos sit on his shelf for 20 years and still be useable.

Don't panic about possible bore damage, such damage will likely be on the fluid side of the seal and therefore irrelevant. Spend your time and money on more urgent projects.
  

1978 R100RS| 1984 R65 | 1984 XT350 | 1992 KLE500 | 2002 R1150GSA
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TomHoldom
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #26 - 10/02/18 at 10:50:05
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Hello again

BREMBO CALIPERS
Finally got my calipers pistons out - good news is they look in good condition, less good news is they are 36mm so when I come to need parts it'll cost more...
At the moment I'm just planning to buy new s/s bleed nipples and rubber caps (as recommended by Tony Smith)

MASTER CYLINDER
Looks like this is beyond my powers of repair, so planning to order a new throttle assembly with master cylinder

STRIPPED DRIVE SHAFT FILL
Barry, I've looked at the heliocoil kits - much simpler than I first imagined. Do you know which thread I need - looks like M12, but there is M12 x 1,5 x 16,3 kit or M12 x 1,25 x 16,3 see photo below; do you know which one of these might do the job?
Presumably I'll need to remove the rear suspension spring for access?

MOTOBINS
see below for a list of items on my motobins order I will placing in the next couple of days; let know if you think I should be considering anything else.

Thanks again - all comments appreciated
Tom
  

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Barry
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #27 - 10/02/18 at 13:55:52
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TomHoldom wrote on 10/02/18 at 10:50:05:
STRIPPED DRIVE SHAFT FILL
Barry, I've looked at the heliocoil kits - much simpler than I first imagined. Do you know which thread I need - looks like M12, but there is M12 x 1,5 x 16,3 kit or M12 x 1,25 x 16,3 see photo below; do you know which one of these might do the job?
Presumably I'll need to remove the rear suspension spring for access?



It'a 12 x 1.5.

I've never had to do this but when you get the drive shaft filler plug out you'll see there is very little depth of free space below the threads to use any sort of taper tap and even if there was you would have to devise a means of preventing swarf getting into the housing. Perhaps someone who has done this repair will chip in and say if it's possible in situ or if as I suspect the drive shaft will have to be removed. I think I'd want to use a pillar drill to keep the hole and threads perpendicular to the housing.
  

Barry Cheshire, England 79 R45
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Tony Smith
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #28 - 10/02/18 at 15:03:45
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Barry wrote on 10/02/18 at 13:55:52:
I've never had to do this but when you get the drive shaft filler plug out you'll see there is very little depth of free space below the threads to use any sort of taper tap and even if there was you would have to devise a means of preventing swarf getting into the housing. Perhaps someone who has done this repair will chip in and say if it's possible in situ or if as I suspect the drive shaft will have to be removed. I think I'd want to use a pillar drill to keep the hole and threads perpendicular to the housing.


It is not possible to do in situ. More to the point, unless you are very,very lucky there is no little metal there that a "proper" repair may require welding and re-drilling.

My wife's bike has been wearing a rubber bung in place of the "fill" screw since the early 90s. Water doesn't get in and only a little gear oil manages to migrate out to remind me that one day I must get  a round to fixing it properly. I am about to pull that final drive to replace seals and at least the big bearing (and on past experience probably every bearing bar the input "sleeve" bearings which just never seems to fail on the older airheads). As I will have it stripped to a bare housing I'll take it into town and have it welded and drilled for a new bolt.
  

1978 R100RS| 1984 R65 | 1984 XT350 | 1992 KLE500 | 2002 R1150GSA
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Justin B.
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Re: R65 Resurrection
Reply #29 - 10/02/18 at 16:01:25
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The repair I did I drilled and then used a "bottoming" tap and JB-Welded the insert into the final.  On the drill and tap just use a bunch of sticky grease and most, if not all, of the chips will stick to it.
  

Justin B.

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